Orkney to Shetland

It’s 1pm on a Sunday and before me sits a sniff of Highland Park Scotch and a cup of instant coffee. I’m in a Kirkwall pub called ‘Auto Hoose’, frequented by Westray folk. The rowdies are warmed up and moving into 3rd gear but my gut is tender. I’ve been […]

Oh Lord, I’m Stuck in Kirkwall Again

I’m still in Orkney. Kirkwall, actually. Orkney Islanders populated the area of Canada known as Arcadia, were chased out because of some concerns about their loyalty, and moved to French Louisiana where they are known as Cajuns. Things went a little sideways last night so I’m in a rough shape, […]

Kirkwall, Orkney

I’m in Kirkwall on the main island of the Orkneys, off the north coast of Scotland. It’s a windswept isle of stone age settlements, peace and quiet. The people are gentle, the fisherman are crazy and there is a sense of a deeper spiritual connection to the land; the weather […]

The Sheep Are Watching Me

All the sheep are looking at me. They communicate. Every last one is paying attention (maybe pretending not to). They line up and stagger and shield each other, so all can see and important ones are protected from the threat I may pose. Then the sick one is brought to […]

To Hamnavoe (Orkney)

A shark surfaced in Scrabster Bay, reminding us of the vital sealife of the isles. On the passage to Stromeness I saw Johnathan Livingston Seagull surfing the updrafts from the wake of the ferry. Past the western cliffs of Hoy and the Old Man of Hoy into at little bay. […]